PENGARUH NOMOR BENANG PAKAN TERHADAP KEKUATAN FISIK KAIN DENIM

Abstract

The aim of this research is to determine the type of weft thread that can be used to make denim fabric according to SNI 0560:2008 in terms of its physical properties (tensile strength and tear strength). The research method that will be used is the experimental research method. The materials used for research are one type of warp thread OE 16, three types of weft thread namely OE 9, OE 11 and OE 13, each type of thread has a different tetal, namely 46, 50 and 54. Denim fabric is made using a Rapier machine. Picanol, 2/1 twill woven, carried out at the Solo AK Textile Workshop. The resulting denim fabric was tested for tensile strength in the warp & weft direction and tear strength in the warp & weft direction. The test results were evaluated and compared with the quality requirements for denim fabric according to SNI 0560:2008 and the influence of two factors, namely number and thread retention on physical strength, was analyzed using a simple factorian. Tensile and tear strength testing was carried out at the Yogyakarta Handicraft and Batik Industry Certification and Services Center. The results of the research show that the weft thread number has a significant effect on the tensile strength of denim woven fabric in the warp direction, that is, the greater the thread number, the higher the tensile strength in the warp direction, likewise the thread number has a significant effect on the tear strength in the weft direction, namely the greater the thread number, the lower the tear strength. towards the feed. Yarn number does not have a significant effect on the tensile strength of denim woven fabric in the weft direction and the tear strength of denim woven fabric in the warp direction. Tenum denim fabric products processed using OE 16 warp threads, OE 9, 11, 13 tetal 46, 50 and 54 warp threads meet the requirements of SNI 0560:2018 in terms of fabric weight, tensile strength and tear strength.

ABSTRAK
Tujuan penelitian  adalah mengetahui jenis benang pakan yang dapat digunakan untuk membuat kain denim sesuai SNI 0560:2008 ditinjau dari sifat fisiknya (kekuatan tarik, dan kekuatan sobek). Metode penelitian yang akan digunakan  adalah metode penelitian eksperimen. Bahan yang digunakan untuk penelitian yaitu satu jenis benang lusi OE 16, tiga jenis benang pakan yaitu OE 9, OE 11, dan OE 13, masing-masing jenis benang mempunyai tetal yang berbeda yaitu 46, 50 dan 54. Kain denim dibuat menggunakan mesin Rapier Picanol, anyaman twill 2/1, dilaksanakan di Workshop  AK-Tekstil Solo. Kain denim yang dihasilkan dilakukan uji kekuatan tarik arah lusi dan pakan serta kekuatan sobek arah lusi dan pakan. Hasil uji dievaluasi dan dibandingkan dengan syarat mutu kain denim sesuai SNI 0560:2008 serta pengaruh dua factor yaitu nomor  dan tetal benang terhadap kekuatan fisik, dianalisis menggunakan factorial sederhana. Pengujian kekuatan tarik dan sobek dilaksanakan di Balai Besar Sertifikasi dan Pelayanan Jasa Industri Kerajinan Dan Batik Yogyakarta. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan bahwa nomor benang pakan berpengaruh signifikan terhadap kekuatan tarik kain tenun denim arah lusi yaitu semakin besar nomor benang semakin tinggi kekuatan tariknya ke arah lusi, demikian juga nomor benang berpengaruh signifikan terhadap kekuatan sobek arah pakan yaitu semakin besar nomor benang semakin rendah kekuatan sobeknya ke arah pakan. Nomor benang tidak berpengaruh signifikan terhadap kekuatan tarik kain tenun denim arah pakan dan kekuatan sobek kain tenun denim kearah lusi. Produk kain tenum denim yang diproses menggunakan benang lusi OE 16, benang pakan OE 9, 11, 13 tetal 46, 50, dan 54 memenuhi persyaratan SNI 0560:2018 ditinjau dari berat kain, kekuatan tarik dan kekuatan sobek.